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Cuisine is greatly influenced by the natural environment, culture, and history of a region, and geographical conditions well reflect the characteristics of a country's dietary lifestyle. To understand Western cuisine, it is helpful to examine their food culture, national character, natural environment, and geographical location.
Starting with this article, we will look at the culinary history of four countries: Korea, Japan, China, and the United States.
Korea
1. Natural Environment
Korea is located between 33 and 43 degrees north latitude, stretching 950 km from north to south, with a total area of about 220,000 km². It is a peninsula country surrounded by sea on three sides, with agricultural land and mountains.It belongs to the temperate climate zone with distinct four seasons, and its temperature, humidity, and rainfall are suitable for agriculture and livestock farming. The high temperatures and rainy season in summer, the temperature difference between north and south, and the long hours of sunshine and dry seasons create an environment suitable for field crops.
2. Social Environment
The population of Korea is about 48 million (as of 2003 statistics), and due to its geographical location where it can receive and transmit culture from both the continent and the ocean, a diverse food culture has developed. The dietary culture has undergone changes and development influenced by northern countries until the 13th century, southern countries since the 16th century Imjin War, and various Western countries in the 19th century. In the late Three Kingdoms period, when people lived in communities suitable for grain farming in the climate and topography, the dietary pattern of eating side dishes with rice as the main dish was formed, and there was kimchi, which is vegetables pickled in salt. During the Unified Silla period, due to the national policy of worshiping Buddhism, meat-eating declined in the diet, and vegetable dishes and tea developed.
During the Goryeo period, trade with various northern countries (Song, Jurchen, Mongolia) was active, and salt, pepper, and sugar were imported, while our lettuce wraps and yakgwa were introduced to Yuan China. During the Joseon period, as Confucian culture settled, filial piety was emphasized as the foundation, and the dietary life according to the patriarchal system was considered important. During this period, corn, peanuts, pumpkins, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, potatoes, and peppers were introduced through trade with foreign countries, and the traditional Korean dietary system as we know it today was established....
3. Characteristics of Food Culture
Korean cuisine emphasizes the mindset and attitude of the person making it because it requires a lot of sincerity and effort. It has developed in a way that combines rice as the main dish with side dishes, resulting in a rational combination of foods and pursuing harmony in nutrition, color, taste intensity, and temperature of the dishes. The main dishes use various grains such as rice or barley, and side dishes use ingredients such as vegetables, meat, and fish. Seasonal preserved fermented foods and dried preserved foods such as kimchi, jang, salted seafood, and dried vegetables are made and used as basic side dishes or seasonings.(1) Diverse Use of Grain Foods
Starting with mixed grain farming in the Neolithic period on the Korean Peninsula, rice farming began around 2,000 BC, and since then, rice, barley, and other grains have been the staple food. In addition, grain foods such as porridge, noodles, and rice cakes were commonly used, and processed grain products such as yeot (Korean taffy), alcohol, and jang (fermented soybean paste) developed in various ways. For Koreans, rice as a grain food has been the center of food culture, continuing from the time when the agricultural society began in earnest until today. Porridge seems to have been used earlier than rice or rice cakes as the first grain food, and as rice settled as a daily staple, porridge developed in various ways as a nutritious food, a preferred food, and a famine relief food. Rice cakes are mainly used as ceremonial food.A major characteristic of everyday Korean meals is the clear distinction between main dishes and side dishes. As rice farming began, grains took the position of main dishes, and meat, fish, and vegetables became side dishes. It is believed that the distinction between main and side dishes in everyday meals was established from the late Three Kingdoms period when rice cooking became common.
(2) Development of Fermented Foods
Korean cuisine has many fermented foods with a long history, such as jang (fermented soybean paste), kimchi, and jeotgal (salted seafood). These foods have unique tastes and functions and have become the foundation of Korean food culture, used as side dishes or seasonings. Jang made from soybeans was an important source of protein in conditions where high-quality animal protein was not easily available, enabling balanced nutrition intake. It is also a food that forms the basis of everyday meals, seasoning food and creating a harmonious taste. Kimchi is a unique preserved food developed to prepare for winter when fresh vegetables are not available, and it complements grain foods like rice well. Recently, various health benefits of kimchi have been discovered, and it is being accepted as an excellent food in foreign countries as well. Jeotgal, made by fermenting fish or their internal organs and shellfish with salt for a certain period, is rich in protein and is used as a source of amino acids for Koreans who mainly eat rice, which lacks essential amino acids. It is also used as a main seasoning when making kimchi. These fermented foods can be considered proud traditional foods created by our people.
(3) Use of Various Plant-based Ingredients
Looking at the ingredients of our food, there are abundant plant-based ingredients such as vegetables, mushrooms, seeds, and seaweed. In particular, the vegetables commonly used in our country are countless, including cultivated vegetables, wild mountain vegetables, and wild herbs. Vegetables are used in almost all cooking, including rice, porridge, rice cakes, soups, stews, namul (seasoned vegetables), ssam (wrapped dishes), steamed dishes, raw vegetables, and jeon (pan-fried dishes). Wild vegetables from mountains and fields are rich in vitamins, minerals, fiber, and antioxidant components. Although the traditional cooking methods for vegetables are cumbersome and time-consuming, vegetables still play an important role in our diet today as side dishes to accompany the main dish....
(4) Development of Soup Culture
Korean cuisine has developed a soup culture with many liquid dishes, and soup is always served in everyday table settings. There are also various types of stews and hot pots. As a result, the use of spoons as utensils to bring food to the mouth has become common. Traditionally, fingers were the eating utensils used worldwide, including Europe, Southeast Asia, the Arab world, and Africa. While food with little or no liquid can be eaten directly with hands, stews or soups cannot be eaten with hands, which is why spoons are uniquely used in Korea. Foods with high liquid content also influenced the shape of tableware, leading to the use of deep, three-dimensional containers. While most of the world has a culture of eating multiple foods from one bowl (一器多食), Korea has developed a culture of serving one food in one bowl (一器一食).
(5) The Concept of Food as Medicine
Korean cuisine has developed cooking methods based on the concept of "food and medicine from the same source" (藥食同源), influenced by China, and there was a belief that "there is no better medicine than food." This means that if one's diet is not proper, illness will occur, and even if illness occurs, it can be cured by eating properly. Because people tried to maintain health through diet, nutritious foods and health-promoting foods were developed, and cooking and processing methods that add medicinal herbs to commonly used alcoholic beverages and cold drinks were popularized to prevent and treat diseases. Medicinal herbs with pharmacological activity such as honey, cinnamon, pine nuts, ginseng, ginger, jujube, omija, and milk vetch root are often used together in food, and some food names include the character for medicine (藥), such as yakgwa (medicinal confection), yaksik (medicinal food), and yakju (medicinal alcohol). In this way, our people can be seen as having early recognized the importance of diet and practiced the philosophical concept of food and medicine from the same source.
(6) Importance of Breakfast
Unlike Western food culture where breakfast is light, Koreans considered breakfast the most important of the three daily meals. This may have been due to the need for a hearty breakfast for the physically demanding labor of agricultural life. This is scientifically and rationally sound from a modern nutritional perspective. The importance of breakfast is further emphasized given the interval of almost 12 hours or more between dinner and the next day's breakfast.(7) Complex Flavors
Korean cuisine tends to enjoy complex flavors using seasonings and spices rather than the taste of the food ingredients themselves. It is a cuisine that creates subtle flavors that are felt throughout the mouth rather than just on the tip of the tongue, not sweet, oily, or spicy. By using at least 5-6 types of seasonings in combination for a single dish, such as soy sauce, green onions, garlic, sesame seeds, sesame oil, red pepper powder, and black pepper powder, known as "various seasonings," these flavor characteristics are brought out.반응형
4. History of Western Cuisine in Korea
1) Introduction Period (1882-1910)
To understand the development process of Western cuisine in Korea, we first need to know who encountered and enjoyed Western food.The first person to taste Western food was Yun Chi-ho, who introduced the first U.S. Minister to Korea, General Foote, to the king. On May 3, 1882, after concluding and signing the Korean-American Treaty of Amity and Commerce in Ganghwa with Minister Foote, they held a celebratory party in a tent.The next were likely Min Young-ik, the first Korean Minister Plenipotentiary to the United States, and his aide Yu Kil-chun in the 20th year of King Gojong's reign (1883). As an invitation envoy to the first U.S. Minister to Korea, they traveled around the American continent by ship for 40 days on their way to the United States. They probably tasted Western food on board the ship that Minister Foote had returned from Shanghai, or when they visited the 21st U.S. President Chester Arthur in New York to present King Gojong's letter, they must have had dinner.
The people who really began to encounter Western cuisine were King Gojong and Emperor Sunjong. They didn't eat it because they wanted to, but because they felt threatened and had to eat it out of necessity, which was truly pitiful. On August 20 (lunar calendar) of the 32nd year of King Gojong's reign, Queen Min was assassinated by Japanese in Gyeongbok Palace, and the retired Heungseon Daewongun reappeared and confined King Gojong and Emperor Sunjong in one room under the pretext of protecting them. At this time, food was the most fearful thing. If they didn't eat, they would starve to death, but if they ate, they were afraid that poison might have been mixed in, so they couldn't dare to pick up their spoons. At this time, the wife of the Russian Minister Waeber personally prepared meals for breakfast and dinner, put them in an iron box, locked it, and delivered it to the palace, so they had no choice but to continue with Western food whether they liked it or not. As seen above, King Gojong moved to the Russian Legation in Jeong-dong at dawn on December 21 of that year and lived solely on Western food locked in iron boxes for three months....
However, King Gojong became accustomed to the taste of Western food during his stay at the Russian Legation. So after returning to Deoksugung Palace, he would order Western food from the Russian Legation, contrary to before. Of course, there was nothing prepared in the palace to make Western food, such as ovens. Around this time, the person who introduced the delicacies of Western cuisine to the Emperor more than anyone else was a woman named Sontag. She first gained favor by making Western pastries and presenting them to Queen Min, and then gave Western cooking lessons to the Queen and personally prepared dishes.
Later, the Sontag Hotel was purchased by Ewha School and operated as the Hanam Hotel, but it was demolished in 1995, and now only the site remains (located below the MBC Broadcasting Station in Jeong-dong). Especially in the year Sontag left, a buffet-style celebration party held at Gyeonghoeru was so magnificent that the Emperor finally issued a special order to establish a full-scale plan to introduce Western cuisine to the palace. King Gojong, who had developed a taste for Western cuisine, appointed Yun Gi-ik, Korea's first student to study in England, as the head of the Western cuisine department in the palace, and had him invite a first-class cook from Paris, the home of Western cuisine, and purchase a complete set of tableware. Thus, Yun Gi-ik, a graduate of the London School of Mines, strangely contributed to the introduction of Western cuisine to the palace, and An Soon-hwan, the palace's military officer, also played a big role in introducing Western tableware. Since there was no formal trade route at the time, tableware and cookbooks were purchased through the first overseas diplomatic missions. Smooth forks and knives were procured from Sweden and Switzerland, porcelain from Belgium, and thin, hard, and transparent glassware from France. To enhance authority, the plum blossom mark of the Korean Empire was engraved on all dishes....
The palace dining hall was also splendidly decorated in the style of the Champs-Élysées Palace with the help of a Frenchman named Colbran. Although there were no refrigerators, they used primitive ice boxes by laying cloth in wooden boxes and measuring ice. The warehouse was filled with cooking ingredients that came from various countries through diplomatic routes, to the extent that people were surprised to find olives from the Mediterranean with "Madrid" labels attached in the warehouse of Changdeokgung Palace's banquet hall.
As soon as Korea was annexed by Japan (1910), Japan sent Yoshimura, a chef from the Japanese Imperial Palace, to King Gojong, seemingly to gain favor with the King who was indulging in French cuisine. He was a veteran who had honed his cooking skills in Paris for 14 years and worked in the Japanese Imperial Palace for 3 years. Under Yoshimura, a team of Western chefs consisting of about 34 assistants including Lee Tae-woon and Lee Ki-pung, and 10 waiters, was assigned to cater to King Gojong's palate, forming an impeccable lineup. Lee Tae-woon's skill in baking bread and pastries was unmatched (he was in charge of desserts). And Lee Ki-pung was a master at handling meat, chicken, and fish. He not only cut sea bream beautifully like cutting silk, but also when an order was placed for a certain number of servings, only the head and tail would be removed, and the exact amount would be prepared on the cutting board as ordered. His skill in frying fish in a pan, plating it, and garnishing it with delicious sauce and seasonal vegetables was close to magical....
The first cookbook to introduce Western cuisine in Korea was "Joseon Mussang Shinsik Yorijebeop" published by Kang Eun-young at Hanheung Bookstore in Jongno in 1915. The book introduces sauces like tomato sauce, meatballs, donkatsu, and Italian soup, and desserts like cake and ice cream. Then on September 8, 1930, the first Western cookbook in Korea was published by the Gyeongseong Women's Club. This book, "The Seoul Women's Club Cook Book," is a bilingual edition in English and Korean, with a national-size format and 313 pages in total.
The preface was written by Baek Nam-seok of Yonsei Professional School on April 15, 1930, and the table of contents consists of 24 items including 22 types of cuisine classifications, methods for using ovens, and term explanations. The measurement units were mostly the same as those used in Japan....
Seoul Station (currently recreated as Seoul Station Grill Restaurant near Bucheon Station in the Railroad Museum) was built in 1925 expecting the population of Seoul to grow to about 500,000, which was 5 times the population of about 100,000 at that time.
This place was frequently visited by businessmen and travelers going to Hamgyeong-do and Manchuria via Busan. At that time, the menu included soup, fish, bread, and beef or chicken for lunch, with ice cream, fruit, and pudding for dessert. At night, cocktails and hors d'oeuvres were additionally provided, along with salad and coffee. Western-style meals were French-style and took about 2 hours, which is not much different from now. The price of Western food was about 3 won 20 jeon, while a mal (about 18 liters) of rice cost 70 jeon, so one Western meal cost as much as five mal of rice. Seoul Station (currently recreated as Seoul Station Grill Restaurant near Bucheon Station in the Railroad Museum) was built in 1925 expecting the population of Seoul to grow to about 500,000, which was 5 times the population of about 100,000 at that time.
This place was frequently visited by businessmen and travelers going to Hamgyeong-do and Manchuria via Busan. At that time, the menu included soup, fish, bread, and beef or chicken for lunch, with ice cream, fruit, and pudding for dessert. At night, cocktails and hors d'oeuvres were additionally provided, along with salad and coffee. Western-style meals were French-style and took about 2 hours, which is not much different from now. The price of Western food was about 3 won 20 jeon, while a mal (about 18 liters) of rice cost 70 jeon, so one Western meal cost as much as five mal of rice. Seolleongtang was 15 jeon, curry rice was 30 jeon, and a Japanese set meal was about 1 won.
At this time, most of the customers were Japanese, and in the 1920s and 1930s, Koreans who frequented Western restaurants were mostly new intellectuals who had studied in the United States, such as Yeo Un-hyeong, Kim Gyu-sik, Seo Jae-pil, Yun Pi-yeong, Yun Deok-yeong, Lee Young-min (Home Run King), and Kim Eul-han (journalist). Even looking at the menu from November 2, 1938, with prices of 2 won for dinner and 1 won 50 jeon for lunch, dinner consisted of an 8-course meal.
3) Stagnation Period (1945-1959)
After liberation on August 15, 1945, Korea's hotel industry had the opportunity for full-scale development, but due to social chaos immediately after liberation, the division of North and South, and the Korean War, the development of the hotel industry was actually stagnant until 1961. The railway dining cars, station restaurants, Joseon Hotel, Bando Hotel, and Busan Railway Hotel, which were operated by the Governor-General and individuals at the end of Japanese rule, were managed by the U.S. military government after liberation and then transferred to the Ministry of Transportation on August 15, 1948, when the Republic of Korea government was established.After liberation, there were only a few grills in Seoul that exclusively served Western food, such as Mijang and Sudo Grill. Among them, Mijang, which opened in November 1945, was not only the base for members of the Korean Democratic Party but also had many intellectuals coming and going, giving the impression of a political gathering place under U.S. military rule.
At this time, Dr. Jo Byeong-ok was so knowledgeable about Western food that he would write menus directly in the kitchen.
Before liberation, French-style was popular, but because of Dr. Jo Byeong-ok's (then Director of Police Affairs) request at Mijang Grill to make meals that could be eaten in a short time like American-style, all meals in Seoul became American-style. So, serving chicken, fish, and vegetables together on one plate became popular at this time.At that time, Cold Meat and hot vegetables like Baked Beans were popular. Most ingredients were imported through Japan. Then the Korean War broke out, and after evacuating to Busan and returning after the recapture, they rebuilt the restaurant at the current site of the Central Post Office. Many people who used to work there gathered to work again, and at that time, about 10 chefs worked in the kitchen. When customers arrived, they were served hors d'oeuvres (now canapés), three types of cocktails (shrimp, pufferfish, etc.), three types of soups (cream, vegetable, consommé), and for the main course, Banja steak (Korea's first steak, a tenderloin dish wrapped in bacon) developed by Koreans was served, with Demi-glace sauce, and pudding was often provided for dessert.After the Korean War broke out in 1950, all the restaurants in Seoul evacuated to Busan.
Among them, Mijang Grill briefly operated in Daejeon before coming to Seoul and opening a restaurant at the current site of the Central Post Office, making a lot of profit and expanding the business by opening several chain-like restaurants. The cafeteria of Seoul City Hall also opened around that time (around March 1951). Later, Lee Jung-il took over the Diplomatic Club and began working with Yun Seong-mo. He spent 53 years as a waiter and serviceman, entering the train dining car at the age of 16 in 1928 and working there for 25 years. After liberation, he was a restaurant owner and manager, stimulating the taste buds of Seoul's gourmets, recognized by all as Korea's top serviceman and a living witness to the history of Western cuisine.
Looking at Korea's culinary industry, Yun Seong-pyo, the head chef of the Diplomatic Club kitchen, born in 1905, was famous in Korea's culinary industry at that time. He was fluent in Japanese and English, allowing him to serve many more foreign customers than other waiters.
He satisfied customers with different menus every day, and it is said that the dishes first introduced at the Diplomatic Club, including soups, meats, fish, salads, appetizers, and desserts, numbered in the hundreds. At that time, the kitchen was a sacred area forbidden to outsiders, and the uniform, including a hat, was white as a symbol of cleanliness and service. Hand washing in the kitchen was emphasized, and it was thought that chefs should cook with hands as clean and disinfected as surgeons entering surgery. Due to his meticulous personality, he would immediately throw away incorrect dishes and set an example for juniors by working diligently in one place for a long time. It's no exaggeration to say that he spent his entire life as a chef, working at the Diplomatic Club from 1958 to November 7, 1976 (18 years).
People who worked with Yun Seong-mo for a long time include Yeon Gyu-hak, Choi In-sik, and Lee Gwang-gil. Lee Gwang-gil married with former President Kim Young-sam as the officiant while working at the Diplomatic Club. At that time, former President Kim Young-sam, as a member of the National Assembly, was a regular customer who often visited the Diplomatic Club to enjoy Western food. It's curious why he didn't enjoy Western food at all after becoming president, whether his taste changed or not. Lee Gwang-gil also worked as the head chef when Tokyu Hotel opened.
During the Korean War, there was a U.S. military officers' club in Busan, where Yun Seong-mo, who had graduated from Osaka Commercial High School in Japan and worked as a chef while serving as the general affairs officer of the Japanese Sabangsa Association, returned to Korea after liberation and worked as the head chef in Busan. It was there that Park Myeong-seon (currently running a restaurant in the U.S.), Korea's first culinary director, first learned cooking as a dishwasher. Later, he worked as a chef at Usom, and there's an interesting anecdote. While working, he completed graduate school at Dongguk University, and when superiors looked for him, his colleagues always made excuses for him. It seems that there was a strong sense of camaraderie and mutual help at that time.
There were many people who led our industry during those dark times, but to name a few: Park Byeong-hui, Choi Byeong-uk, Ha Tae-du, Song In-sik, and especially Ha Soon-cheol and Jeon Jeong-sil, who were mentioned earlier. Ha Tae-du left behind 1,000 pages of handwritten culinary terms and menus during his lifetime. With the intention of publishing a book to pass on to juniors when publishing conditions improved, his dedication to writing menus in French and translating French ingredients and terms into Korean is remarkable.
And Jeon Jeong-sil, who opened La Cantina, is a master of cuisine who started Italian cooking. He left handwritten notes about sauces while working at La Cantina. I also wrote a book called "Theory and Practice of Sauces" after seeing these notes. At that time, Western cuisine in Seoul was generally as follows:
For appetizers, shrimp cocktail and brandy cocktail sauce were popular. Soups included authentic Italian vegetable soup (broth, vegetables, onions, carrots, tomatoes, leeks, mushrooms), onion cheese soup, Russian soup, and cream soup. Especially for consommé soup, it was boiled with tenderloin wings and vegetables.
For salads, French tomato dressing (now French dressing with added tomato), Thousand Island dressing, and tartar sauce were mainly used.
Fish dishes were often prepared in the meunière style, coating fish with flour and frying in oil, served with butter sauce or brown butter sauce. Fish bones were roasted in the oven, then fish stock and brown roux were added and boiled, then butter was added and strained before use.
For meats, demi-glace sauce was often used. Due to the lack of refrigerators, tenderloin was brought in daily, cleaned, wrapped in cloth, placed on ice for aging, and partially drained of blood before being sliced and served to customers.
Demi-glace sauce was originally gravy sauce, but it got its name because Japanese people pronounced it as "dobi." The sauce-making method at that time was as follows:
In a large 100L container, meat, vegetables, and tomato paste were added and boiled, then all leftover ingredients from the kitchen were added and continued to boil, using as much as needed for the day. It can be said that brown meat sauce was constantly boiling on the fire. After boiling for 3-4 days, vegetables and meat were strained and discarded, and ingredients were continuously added to make the sauce, which might have tasted better than now because meat broth sauce was rare at that time. Lobster was popular, with both Newburg style and American style. Newburg style mixed American sauce with cream sauce, while American style grilled lobster on a grill and served it with tomato sauce (powdered milk was used because there was no fresh cream).
For dessert, ice cream was often served. Anglaise sauce was made by boiling powdered milk, sugar, and egg yolks, then put in a container and placed in a wider container with salt and ice.
Looking at Korea's culinary industry, Yun Seong-pyo, the head chef of the Diplomatic Club kitchen, born in 1905, was famous in Korea's culinary industry at that time. He was fluent in Japanese and English, allowing him to serve many more foreign customers than other waiters.
He satisfied customers with different menus every day, and it is said that the dishes first introduced at the Diplomatic Club, including soups, meats, fish, salads, appetizers, and desserts, numbered in the hundreds. At that time, the kitchen was a sacred area forbidden to outsiders, and the uniform, including a hat, was white as a symbol of cleanliness and service. Hand washing in the kitchen was emphasized, and it was thought that chefs should cook with hands as clean and disinfected as surgeons entering surgery. Due to his meticulous personality, he would immediately throw away incorrect dishes and set an example for juniors by working diligently in one place for a long time. It's no exaggeration to say that he spent his entire life as a chef, working at the Diplomatic Club from 1958 to November 7, 1976 (18 years).
People who worked with Yun Seong-mo for a long time include Yeon Gyu-hak, Choi In-sik, and Lee Gwang-gil. Lee Gwang-gil married with former President Kim Young-sam as the officiant while working at the Diplomatic Club. At that time, former President Kim Young-sam, as a member of the National Assembly, was a regular customer who often visited the Diplomatic Club to enjoy Western food. It's curious why he didn't enjoy Western food at all after becoming president, whether his taste changed or not. Lee Gwang-gil also worked as the head chef when Tokyu Hotel opened.
During the Korean War, there was a U.S. military officers' club in Busan, where Yun Seong-mo, who had graduated from Osaka Commercial High School in Japan and worked as a chef while serving as the general affairs officer of the Japanese Sabangsa Association, returned to Korea after liberation and worked as the head chef in Busan. It was there that Park Myeong-seon (currently running a restaurant in the U.S.), Korea's first culinary director, first learned cooking as a dishwasher. Later, he worked as a chef at Usom, and there's an interesting anecdote. While working, he completed graduate school at Dongguk University, and when superiors looked for him, his colleagues always made excuses for him. It seems that there was a strong sense of camaraderie and mutual help at that time.
There were many people who led our industry during those dark times, but to name a few: Park Byeong-hui, Choi Byeong-uk, Ha Tae-du, Song In-sik, and especially Ha Soon-cheol and Jeon Jeong-sil, who were mentioned earlier. Ha Tae-du left behind 1,000 pages of handwritten culinary terms and menus during his lifetime. With the intention of publishing a book to pass on to juniors when publishing conditions improved, his dedication to writing menus in French and translating French ingredients and terms into Korean is remarkable.
And Jeon Jeong-sil, who opened La Cantina, is a master of cuisine who started Italian cooking. He left handwritten notes about sauces while working at La Cantina. I also wrote a book called "Theory and Practice of Sauces" after seeing these notes. At that time, Western cuisine in Seoul was generally as follows:
For appetizers, shrimp cocktail and brandy cocktail sauce were popular. Soups included authentic Italian vegetable soup (broth, vegetables, onions, carrots, tomatoes, leeks, mushrooms), onion cheese soup, Russian soup, and cream soup. Especially for consommé soup, it was boiled with tenderloin wings and vegetables.
For salads, French tomato dressing (now French dressing with added tomato), Thousand Island dressing, and tartar sauce were mainly used.
Fish dishes were often prepared in the meunière style, coating fish with flour and frying in oil, served with butter sauce or brown butter sauce. Fish bones were roasted in the oven, then fish stock and brown roux were added and boiled, then butter was added and strained before use.
For meats, demi-glace sauce was often used. Due to the lack of refrigerators, tenderloin was brought in daily, cleaned, wrapped in cloth, placed on ice for aging, and partially drained of blood before being sliced and served to customers.
Demi-glace sauce was originally gravy sauce, but it got its name because Japanese people pronounced it as "dobi." The sauce-making method at that time was as follows:
In a large 100L container, meat, vegetables, and tomato paste were added and boiled, then all leftover ingredients from the kitchen were added and continued to boil, using as much as needed for the day. It can be said that brown meat sauce was constantly boiling on the fire. After boiling for 3-4 days, vegetables and meat were strained and discarded, and ingredients were continuously added to make the sauce, which might have tasted better than now because meat broth sauce was rare at that time. Lobster was popular, with both Newburg style and American style. Newburg style mixed American sauce with cream sauce, while American style grilled lobster on a grill and served it with tomato sauce (powdered milk was used because there was no fresh cream).
For dessert, ice cream was often served. Anglaise sauce was made by boiling powdered milk, sugar, and egg yolks, then put in a container and placed in a wider container with salt and ice.
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